In the trenches: How Only Murders In The Building honors the tradition of detective wear
The coat is the thing in Hulu's true-crime send-up. Costume designer Dana Covarrubias peels back each look, layer by layer.
TV Features Only Murders in the Building
The trench coat is a staple of wardrobes and detective stories alike. Harried sleuths, poised private eyes, and world-weary investigators have often donned these versatile numbers: double-breasted; belt buckled or tied; sometimes accompanied by a hat. One of the most famous fictional detectives, Sherlock Holmes, for decades sported an Inverness outercoat, which is quite trench-like, before trading it for a Belstaff Milford Coat in Steven Moffat and Mark Gatiss’ BBC series. (Both looks remain highly coveted.) The trench coat could speak to a detective’s no-nonsense attitude, but it could just as easily become a fashion statement.
The look evolved, and the more traditional trenches of Dragnet gave way to Columbo’s rumpled raincoat. The Inspector Gadget cartoon played with the functionality of the coat. Sometimes, the coat was a riff on the trench: a mac, a cag, and a Barbour have shielded detectives from the elements and their quarry. The collected closets of the cops of the various Law & Order shows have more gabardine, leather, and cashmere outerwear than a Macy’s.
In its send-up of true-crime culture, Hulu’s Only Murders In The Building honors some detective story traditions as it skewers or deconstructs many of the rest. One element that translated easily to the Upper West Side setting of the show, which stars Steve Martin, Selena Gomez, and Martin Short, was the iconic coat. The series, which is now in its sixth episode, deploys its outerwear looks as thoughtfully as its clues. What these amateur sleuths wear says a lot of about their characters. Their natty cold-weather ensembles serve as armor, a façade, and even advertising.
That’s all by the show’s design, which got a guiding hand from Dana Covarrubias. The costume designer, who’s also worked on Mrs. Fletcher, Ramy, and Claws, tells The A.V. Club that she was inspired by Hitchcock movies, Columbo, and even Fargo to put together ensembles that are both timeless and of the moment. We spoke to Covarrubias about paying homage to the TV detectives of yore, pairing faux fur with a pop star, and the hunt for one traffic-stopping look.
15 Comments
I hate to be the ‘this didn’t need a slide show’ guy, but this didn’t need a slideshow.
Yet you still clicked. Hmmm.
Nothing ever does
There should be a slide show to list what topics would make a good slide show.
The use of complementary colors on the clothing also help Mabel’s “New York Armor” really pop.That color orange is weirdly endearing for some of us whose childhood was filled with it.
The costuming – like everything about the show – is top-notch. It’s an impressive show, and I’m really nervous that they’re going to botch the ending. It seems like this is all building to something coherent, but you can’t trust a limited series not to blow itself up in the last 15 minutes. Also, can we put Selena Gomez in everything?
They were picked up for a second season. I’m hoping there is enough there.I would agree with Selena Gomez being in everything, but as a man old enough to be her father, I feel like my vote shouldn’t count here You can have my proxy.
I feel like the costumes and the score are actual characters in this show. The score really brings it home for me and these coats pop.I love Martin Short in this scene. Perfect character introductions for all three.
Charles wears a pork pie hat, not a fedora.
Finally a good use of the slide show. I love hearing about the thought process behind the costuming. So often we fixate on period pieces or outrageous looks, it’s nice to get insight on how costume designers think about character and story when doing their job.
This is how all detectives should dress:
This will be one of the only times I ever care about who wins the Best Costume Design award at the Emmys. She absolutely nailed costume on this show.
I really dislike leather clothing so Mable’s coat is a ‘no’ from me. Also, the shoulders are far too sloped and gathering leather at the waist lends an inelegant, chunky appearance. You have to be very slender to pull it off and then it just looks very self-conscious.
The description says it’s vinyl, if that helps. Not leather.